Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Talkeetna and Anchorage

Our trip south from Denali to Talkeetna was quite interesting, and very beautiful. Here is a picture of us in the large domed Princess rail car: The trains were all very comfortable, and each car had it's own dining room where you could go buy some breakfast, lunch, or dinner, depending on what time of the day it happened to be. The view from all directions was breathtaking -- and we took plenty of pictures to prove it. Here are just a few of my favorites: About halfway through our trip, the train slowed to a crawl and continued at that pace for over an hour. It seemed that the warmer weather had caused the tracks to expand faster than they should, and portions of the track were becoming unstable. So, the train finally came to a complete stop for about an hour while a team came out onto the tracks to repair the damage. Here is a photo of the front of our train (on the left) and the yellow repair vehicles that helped us on our way. We got a wierd rainbow effect in the sky for this picture, Mike thinks it had something to do with the filter on his lens and the coating on the windows:Before we arrived at the Mckinley Lodge in Talkeetna (4 hours late), the weather had been clear, as you can see by the pictures above. I was excited to stay at the Princess McKinley Lodge, because it sits at the foot of Mt. McKinley. As you can see from the picture below, the lodge has a huge window that looks out onto the mountain. Unfortunately, during our delay, the weather closed in, as did the mountain. So instead of seeing Mt. McKinley, this is what we saw! It rained for the short amount of time we had there, but we found things to do. Mike's dad and his wife went hiking in the rain, and Mike and I went to a ranger talk about climbing McKinley It was really interesting to hear about the process. The ranger said it costs about $20,000 for an individual to spend 3 weeks climbing the mountain. You have to pay for fees, plane or helicopter rides to and from base camp, guides, equipment, food for 28 days, and numerous miscellaneous expenses. Then you get to endure 21 days of hard hiking carrying heavy packs in temperatures hovering around 40 below, sleeping in ice trenches covered with a tarp,and incredible snow and wind storms. Plus, all this is done within an oxygen deprived environment. Oh, did I forget to mention you pack out your **waste**?? After all that...those that make it (about 40%) are only on the summit for about 10 minutes! I think I'll pass on the mountain climbing.
The next morning, we woke up to sunshine, and were excited to be going to Anchorage. Mike's brother Greg and his wife Debbie were meeting us for the next portion of our trip -- our cruise! We spent the night in Anchorage, and enjoyed a delicious dinner at Club Paris, a restaurant with REALLY good steaks! My friend had recommended it, so we were happy to give it a try. Here is a cute picture of Mike and his brother at dinner, and a pic of all of us outside the restaurant. If you are ever in Anchorage, you must go there! Don't know how it got it's name, there is certainly no French food! But, there are some REALLY yummy beer battered onion rings!The next morning we boarded yet another train for the 2 hour trip to Whittier, a teeny tiny port town that Princess uses to dock its ships. On the way, we taught Greg something the rest of us had learned on our land tour -- how to give a moose wave. Looks like Greg's moose has lost a few antlers! As we pulled into Whittier, we got our first view of the ship, the Diamond Princess: On my next post, I'll take you on a tour of the ship!

Monday, July 14, 2008

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

From Fairbanks, we boarded our Princess rail cars on the Alaskan Railroad for our next destination, Denali National Park. Here is a great shot of the front half of the train as it rounded a wide corner: This next picture is one I took as we came into the park, looking down on a rafting party in the Nenana River gorge. They were enjoying a quiet spot on the river!Mike talked me into doing a whitewater trip down this gorge, you'll see a picture of that trip later in this post.

After we checked into our hotel, we started out on our 6 hour Tundra Wilderness Tour, which took us 63 miles into the park. Here is a picture of the braided Teklanika River, and one of Mike and I at an overlook along that river. If anyone saw Sean Penn's movie "Into the Wild", you'll know that the Teklanika River is the one that Chris McCandless tried and failed to cross (in it's swollen, flooded state) the July before he died in the wilderness near Denali. You can read his sad story (an article in Outside magazine) here .

At the mid point of our tour, we stopped at the summit of Polychrome Pass for this picture which looks out over the Toklat River Valley. It was COLD and windy up here! Scattered here across the Plains of Murie, below the Polychrome summit, you can see small ponds formed by large blocks of ice deposited when the glaciers receded. We saw lots of wildlife on our tour, including a parade of dall sheep walking across a scraggy mountain ridge: We were also thrilled to see 5 grizzly bears, including this blonde one that was seen foraging through the scrub for food. We got a good shot of a caribou lounging on the tundra, and of this pretty red fox loping across the gravel road in front of our bus. On the way back to our hotel, the clouds that were hanging over us suddenly parted to the west, and we got a fairly good view of the elusive Mt. McKinley. There were still clouds clinging to its summit, but you can sort of get an idea of its size. Even with the clouds covering the top, it still dwarfs the large mountains in front of it.At 20,320 feet, it is the highest peak in North America. In actual vertical rise, it is even higher than Everest. McKinley starts it's rise at only 2000 feet, rising 18, 320 feet more in actual vertical height. Everest is measured taller though, because it starts it's rise at 17,000 feet, to which you add it's mere 12,000 foot vertical height. There were over 100 climbers on the mountain the day we were there -- and a search party looking for 2 missing mountaineers.
The next morning was spent hiking through the park. This sign made me nervous, and made Mike hopeful for a good photo opportunity: We walked down to beautiful Horseshoe Lake, which was just a few miles from our lodge.We hiked for a few hours here, and got some good pictures of a beaver dam: Mike and his dad did this hike again at a later time, and came upon this mother moose and her baby grazing on the plants at the bottom of the lake: That evening, we donned our "dry suits" to begin our adventure in white water rafting. The water was only 38 degrees, so I was really grateful that we didn't get very wet! I had never rafted before, and these were designated class 3-4 rapids. I was a bit nervous. After it was over though, I decided that it was a lot of fun, and I would probably go again! This trip was nice, because we didn't have to paddle. All I had to do was hold on, and try and stay inside the boat! Here is a picture of us beginning one of the rapids on the Nenana River. Mike and I are in the front on the left, and his dad and Susie are on the right:

Next stop on our Alaskan adventure, Talkeetna and Anchorage!

Thursday, July 10, 2008

GOLD PANNING AND ATHABASCANS

We left Barrow, and returned to Fairbanks. Now we have officially started our "cruise/tour" with Princess Cruise Lines! They kept us busy, but took us to some really neat places. We visited the El Dorado Gold mine, and spent a fun morning being taught how to operate a sluice box and pan for gold. First we boarded a steam train that took us up in the hills above Fairbanks. There we met a young miner who told us lots of stories and history surrounding the Alaskan/Yukon gold rush. From there we watched a demonstration on how to pan for gold, and were given a bag of pay dirt of our own. Something tells me it was probably rigged, but hey -- it was still fun. We didn't come away millionaires, but we did manage to pan out about $12 worth of gold between the two of us! This was Mikes...I had about the same amount.

That afternoon, we boarded the riverboat Discovery, which took us down (or was it up?) the Chena River. We stopped here at Susan Butcher's dog camp, Trail Breaker Kennels, and visited with Susan's husband, David Monson.He taught us all about the selection and training of a good sled dog team, and about his wife, Susan. Susan was the first woman to win the 1000 mile long Iditarod in Alaska, and she ended up winning a total of 4 times. Unfortunately, Susan passed away 2 years ago from cancer. Just before she died, Susan wrote a children's book about her lead dog, Granite. Susan, Granite and the dog team not only ran the Iditarod, but climbed to the top of Mt. McKinley together. They are the only dog team to have ever climbed the mountain. If you are interested in purchasing a copy of her book, it is available at http://www.amazon.com/. All of the profit from the sales goes toward the education fund for Susan's young girls. We also made a stop at an Athabascan Indian Village. We learned all about tanning hides and preserving fish and meat. This photo is of a drying house. We also watched a native Athabascan woman sewing skins together and doing bead work for a parka. One of the parkas she made has earned a spot in the Smithsonian Institution. This parka took her about 6 months to sew, and is valued at about $16,000.
Next stop on our tour - Denali National Park. Don't miss it!

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Barrow, The Far North

Boy, do I have some catching up to do! Mike and I arrived home last night from our (drum roll, please) FABULOUS vacation to Alaska and Canada. I managed to get one post done while I was there, but after that...I got too involved in what we were seeing and doing to care much about blogging. So now...we start our journey from Barrow, Alaska -- the northernmost community on the North American continent.


We flew from Fairbanks to Barrow via another coastal town - Prudhoe Bay. Prudhoe shot onto the map in 1967 with the discovery there of North America's largest oil field. From the airplane, we could easily see the long snake of the TransAlaskan Pipeline meandering across the treeless, flat, Arctic tundra. You saw a closer "land" view of this on my previous post.We also enjoyed seeing the frozen Arctic Ocean below us. Can you see the large cracks in the surface at the bottom half of the picture?

We arrived at Will Rogers Memorial airport in Barrow, and found our way to this signpost, which pointed the way to cities all over the world. We are posing here with a copy of "OK!" magazine. They hold a contest in which readers submit pictures of themselves reading the magazine in remote locations around the world. I figured this was about as remote as I could get. If I get published, I'll let ya know!Barrow is a very small town, and the buildings there are short, squat and simple. It reminded me a bit of Tijuana, with trash littering the ground and junk laying all over. This picture below shows just a bit of the main street. Our hotel is on the right, and the frozen Arctic Ocean is just beyond the buildings. Most of the people were Inupiat Eskimos, and most of them were very friendly. We were invited to attend the Nalukataq, which is a yearly celebration of a successful whaling season. The native eskimos are subsistence hunters, and divide up the whale to distribute to the community at the Nalukataq. We were given a warm bowl of caribou soup, which was really good! As I was eating it, a toothless elderly Inupiat woman got right close in my face and said, slowly, "That soup will keep you warm."Then we were offered a serving of mikiaq, which is fermented whale blubber soaked in blood. The red is blubber, and the black attached to it is the skin.Mike's dad and I passed on the mikiaq. Sue (Mike's dad's wife) and Mike were brave though, and tried a bite. The consensus was that next time, they would pass on the mikiaq, too. Ya gotta give them credit for trying!
We took a short tour of the town, which included a visit to the Barrow "forest". Since the environment is so harsh there, no trees will grow. Some industrious eskimo made his own trees out of driftwood and baleen from a bowhead whale! Here is our group standing in between jaw bones of a bowhead whale, and of me standing inside a bowhead skull. These are some BIG whales!
We also visited the larger-than-expected grocery store, which (much to my amusement) had snowmobiles for sale in the freezer aisle. Milk was $9.69 a gallon, and Bing cherries were selling for $12.99 a pound. I guess that's what happens when everything you eat (except whale) has to be flown or barged in.

We visited the Inupiat Eskimo Heritage Center, where we got to see some native dancing, and a demonstration of the blanket toss. As you can see from the video, it's sort of like jumping on a trampoline, except the people holding the blanket (including Mike, his dad, and Sue) are raising and lowering it to toss the woman. This is a game often played at festivals and other Inupiat celebrations. The "blanket" for the game is made from seal or walrus skins, so it can handle the pounding that results every time a player lands on it after a "toss." The winner is the player who bounces the highest.


We also thought this picture of a native Inupiat Eskimo and her baby was cute -- we had to include it!

We could not leave Barrow without a couple commemorative shots. The first one is of Mike and me at MIDNIGHT, on June 21, the summer solstice, which is the longest day of the year.Barrow has 82 days of continuous sunlight - the sun never sets below the horizon. It is an odd sight to see the sun circling completely around the horizon instead of coming up and then slipping below and out of sight. I enjoyed it.
We also have a shot here of me standing on the frozen Arctic Ocean.The pack ice was beginning to break up while we were there, but was still solid in most places. It was easy to hop from one ice floe to another. It was very interesting to see the ocean all frozen over and not moving.
Here is another picture of Mike and me, his dad, and Sue standing on the ocean!
Last but not least, you will see me taking a "dip" in the Arctic Ocean. Maybe not a very big dip, but a dip, just the same! I can now add it to my list of "things I have done". As you can probably tell, it was really, really C-O-L-D!!!!!